Consider sides when choosing wine
Turkey. Check.
Stuffing. Check.
Green bean casserole. Check.
Cranberry sauce. Check.
Wine. Wine?
“Hmm!” My friend Corky was getting ready for Thanksgiving and a traditional meal of roast turkey with all the trimmings.
But what wines to serve? For the answers, Corky turned to Ben Eubanks, The Jefferson Hotel’s director of restaurants, who is in charge of the wine program.
“I have an idea about the wines, but what would The Jefferson’s wine manager serve for his own meal?” Corky said.
Eubanks responded as if he had heard the question before.
“Although turkey is really symbolic of the holiday, the wine pairing has to recognize the side dishes,” he said. “Turkey does not have very assertive flavor, while the variety of flavor profiles from the side dishes can present challenges with pairing wines.
“And, do not forget every person is a unique individual, and, therefore, it is wrong to assume all will have identical reactions when served the same food and wine. Just like that, a simple question has turned into a headache!”
Corky agreed. “My head is spinning. What wine do you suggest?”
Eubanks, a graduate of The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., had the answer again.
“In order to accommodate all the flavors of a Thanksgiving meal with a single white wine, I suggest picking a dry, light- to medium-bodied white, such as the Marquee Riesling, Victoria, Australia 2006 [$10],” he said.
“This Riesling will have refreshing acidity and subtle herbaceous notes, so there should be no conflict with the earthy flavors of a typical Thanksgiving meal.”
“But,” Corky said, “I’m a red-wine drinker. Would reds work?”
No problem.
“I recommend choosing [reds] that are on the lighter side,” Eubanks said. “You can keep your first-growth Bordeaux for another occasion, as it would wash away the meal. Thanksgiving includes massive amounts [of] protein, carbs and fat, so you probably will not want to pile on more weight with a huge wine.
“An approachable wine would be the Vina Alarba, Pago San Miguel, Spain 2002 [$18]. It is a blend of Garanacha and Syrah and has been aged in French oak. It has ripe fruit flavors, great structure, understated spice notes and silky finish. Both of these are available at Private Stock Wine and Cigar in Tuckahoe Shopping Center in Richmond.”
Any final thoughts about wine choice?
“The question of whether to stick with the traditional wines or go out on a limb is really up to the individual,” Eubanks said. “The first thing to remember is to relax and not get hung up on the challenge. Keep it light, simple and, above all, choose a wine that you know you like.”
“And add it to the list of things to be thankful for,” Corky said.
By Jack Berninger
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